Black Tie Wedding Guest Dresses: Gowns That Fit the Code

For a black tie wedding, wear a floor-length gown in a rich fabric like satin, crepe or velvet. Keep the cut simple and let the length and fabric do the formal work; a short cocktail dress belongs at a black tie optional wedding, not this one.

That's the whole rule in two lines. The rest of this guide is about choosing a cut you'll be comfortable in all evening and getting the shoes, bag and wrap right.

What to wear to a black tie wedding

Wear a floor-length gown, in a formal fabric, with evening accessories. That covers what to wear to a black tie wedding for almost every guest. Black tie dresses for women are floor-length gowns in satin, crepe, velvet or heavy chiffon, usually in a solid color, with heels and a small evening bag.

Black tie is the most formal dress code most guests will see on a wedding invitation, and it usually means an evening event. For the full meaning of the code, read what black tie means.

Floor length is the line that matters

Length is what separates black tie from everything below it. A gown that reaches the floor, or at least the ankle, reads formal even in a simple cut. A knee-length or midi dress, however dressy, reads cocktail. That's the difference from black tie optional wedding guest dresses, where a formal midi or cocktail dress is fine.

Tea length or a formal midi only works if the invitation or the couple says so. If you're unsure, go long.

Fabrics that read formal

The fabric does half the work of looking formal:

• Satin: smooth, with a soft shine that looks right under evening light.
• Crepe: matte and fluid, the most understated formal choice and forgiving of creases.
• Velvet: deep, plush color that suits a cold-weather evening.
• Heavy chiffon: light and floaty, usually layered over a lining so it doesn't look thin.
• Sequins and beading: formal at night, as long as the rest of the outfit stays quiet.

Cotton, linen and clingy jersey look casual even in a long length, so skip them for black tie.

Colors that suit an evening wedding

Deep, saturated colors look most at home at a black tie evening: navy, emerald, sapphire, burgundy, plum, deep green, and metallics like gold, silver and champagne. Soft pastels work at a spring or summer black tie wedding, especially in satin. Skip white, ivory and very pale champagne that could read bridal in photos, and check the wedding website in case the couple has asked guests to wear, or avoid, a particular palette.

Black tie gowns by cut

A black tie gown can be any silhouette, as long as it's long and made in a formal fabric. These five cuts cover most guests. Each one also comes in plus sizes, and our guide to plus size formal dresses covers what to check in a plus size black tie listing, from the size range to the lining.

A column gown

A column gown falls straight from the shoulders or the bust to the floor, close to the body without hugging it. It's the cleanest, most classic choice, and it suits most heights. In satin or crepe with a simple neckline, it works at any black tie wedding. The catch: a narrow column skirt needs a slit or some stretch, or you'll be taking small steps all night.

A one-shoulder or halter gown

One-shoulder and halter necklines look modern and show off the arms and shoulders. They suit an evening wedding where you'll stay indoors. The catch is bra planning: a regular bra won't work with either, so check whether the listing mentions built-in cups, or plan a strapless or stick-on bra.

A gown with a slit or a draped skirt

A front or side slit makes a long, slim gown easier to walk and dance in, and a draped or wrapped skirt adds movement without bulk. Both suit a guest who wants something a little more striking. The catch: a high slit on a staircase or in a church pew shows more leg than you might want. Check the slit height in the listing and keep it below mid-thigh for a wedding.

An A-line gown

An A-line gown fits through the bodice and widens gently from the waist to the floor. It's the easiest cut to sit, walk and dance in, and the defined waist makes it a safe pick if you're not sure what will suit you. In satin it looks structured; in layered chiffon it moves more. The catch: a very full skirt takes up room at a crowded table and on the dance floor, so a soft A-line is easier to live with than a full ball-gown skirt.

A long-sleeve gown

A long-sleeve gown covers you for a church ceremony and a cold venue with no wrap to keep track of, and it looks especially elegant in velvet or matte crepe. It suits a guest who'd rather keep her arms covered, and it photographs as one clean line. The catch is heat: a heavy long-sleeve gown gets warm on a busy dance floor, so choose a lighter crepe or sheer sleeves for a summer date.

At a winter black tie wedding, this is the cut to start with. Velvet or a lined satin with long sleeves keeps you warm from the car to the reception, and a faux-fur stole covers a sleeveless gown for photos outside. The winter section of our black tie optional guide covers cold-weather fabrics, tights and wraps in more detail.

Finishing the look: heels, a clutch and a wrap

The finishing pieces should be as formal as the gown, but small.

• Shoes: a strappy heeled sandal or a block-heel evening sandal. Pick a height you can stand and dance in for hours, because black tie weddings often run late. Make sure the hem clears the floor in the shoes you'll actually wear.
• A clutch: a small satin, beaded or metal-frame bag with room for a phone, a lipstick and a card. A chain strap frees your hands for a glass. See evening clutches for weddings.
• A wrap or stole: for cold venues, church shoulders and late outdoor photos. Our guide to shawls and wraps for dresses covers evening fabrics.
• Jewelry: one focal piece, usually earrings, plus a bracelet at most. With a high neckline, skip the necklace.

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