Black Tie Attire for Women: Gowns, Rules and Accessories

Black tie is a formal evening dress code: men wear tuxedos, and women wear floor-length gowns or something equally formal. If the invitation says black tie, plan on a long dress in a dressy fabric, heels or elegant flats, and a small evening bag.

This page explains what the words mean, where black tie sits next to the codes around it, and how to build the outfit from the gown down to the earrings.

What black tie means

Black tie means the event is a formal evening affair, and the host expects guests dressed accordingly: tuxedos for men, gowns or the equivalent for women. The name comes from the men's black bow tie worn with a dinner jacket.

Black tie started out as the relaxed option. In the second half of the 1800s, the short dinner jacket appeared as a more comfortable alternative to the tailcoat worn for white tie, and in the US it took the name tuxedo from Tuxedo Park, New York. Over the following century it became the standard formal evening code.

You'll see black tie on invitations to evening weddings, galas and charity balls, award dinners, formal military and company events and some opening nights. It almost always means an event that starts in the evening.

The black tie dress code for women

The black tie dress code for women is simple at its core: a long evening dress. Black tie attire for women traditionally means a floor-length gown, and that's still the safest choice for any black tie event. The Emily Post Institute's attire guide lists a floor-length evening gown first, and also includes a dressy cocktail dress or your dressiest little black dress, so some hosts are relaxed about length. When you can't tell, go long.

The dress doesn't need to be black. Any color works, from jewel tones to metallics to soft pastels. What matters is length, fabric and finish.

Length: floor or ankle

Floor length is the classic black tie hem: the skirt touches the top of your shoes or just skims the floor. An ankle-length dress is fine too, especially if it's in a formal fabric. A tea-length dress (between mid-calf and the ankle) in satin or velvet can work at a less strict event, but it's the furthest you should push it.

Check the length with the shoes you'll wear. A gown that's perfect in flats can look too short with heels, and one that's perfect in heels will drag in flats.

Fabric and finish

Black tie fabrics look rich at night. Satin, silk, crepe, velvet, chiffon, taffeta, lace and sequins all work. A matte jersey gown can work too if the cut is formal.

Skip anything that reads daytime or casual: cotton, linen, chambray, casual knits and busy everyday prints. A sundress-style maxi is long, but it isn't black tie.

A formal jumpsuit for black tie

A jumpsuit can be black tie when it's as formal as a gown. Look for a wide leg that reaches the floor, a formal fabric like crepe or satin and a polished neckline or back. Worn with heels and evening jewelry, it reads as eveningwear. In common practice a very formal jumpsuit is often accepted at black tie, though a gown is the surer choice and a traditional host might prefer one, so ask if you're unsure. Skip cropped legs, jersey lounge styles and anything with a casual cut.

Black tie optional vs black tie

Black tie optional vs black tie comes down to choice. At black tie, the host expects a formal standard: tuxedos and gowns. At black tie optional, the host welcomes that standard but doesn't require it, so men can wear a dark suit and women have more room on length.

• Black tie: floor-length or ankle-length gown, or a formal jumpsuit. Men in tuxedos.
• Black tie optional: a gown, a formal midi or a dressy cocktail dress. Men in tuxedos or dark suits.

If you're dressing for the optional version, our full guide to black tie optional covers what works.

Black tie vs the codes around it

Black tie sits near the top of the dress-code ladder. Here's how it compares, with each code explained on its own page:

• White tie is more formal than black tie: tailcoats for men and full-length ball gowns for women. See the white tie dress code.
• Black tie optional is one step down, as above.
• Cocktail is shorter and lighter: knee to midi dresses. See cocktail attire for what it means at a wedding.
• Festive cocktail adds holiday color and sparkle to cocktail. See festive cocktail attire.

If an invitation adds a word to black tie, such as "creative black tie", expect the same formality with room for fun accessories or color.

Building a black tie outfit

Start with the gown, then plan for the walk in, then add the finishing pieces. If the event is a wedding, our black tie wedding guest dresses guide focuses on gowns for that setting.

The gown

Choose a floor-length gown in satin or crepe if you want one dress that will work at any black tie event. A simple column or A-line shape in a solid color is the easiest to style, and you can wear it again to a gala, a wedding or an awards dinner by changing the jewelry.

Fit matters more than trend. The gown should let you sit, walk and climb stairs without holding it up. If it's a little long, a tailor can hem it to your shoe height; if it's a little short, choose a lower heel.

Black, navy, emerald, burgundy and deep red are classic black tie colors. Metallics are festive for holiday and New Year's events.

A wrap or stole for the walk in

Many evening gowns are sleeveless, and plenty of black tie events happen in winter. Bring a wrap, a stole or a dressy coat for the walk from the car to the door and for a cold ballroom. A satin or chiffon wrap suits spring and summer; a faux-fur stole or a velvet wrap suits winter. For styles that look right over a gown, see evening wraps and shawls.

Leave your everyday puffer in the car or at the coat check. It's fine to arrive in one, but it shouldn't appear in photos.

Shoes, bag and earrings

Shoes: heeled sandals, pumps or elegant flats. Strappy sandals look the most formal with a gown; block heels are easier on grass or long nights of standing. Your shoes barely show under a floor-length gown, so comfort can win.

Bag: a small evening clutch or a minaudière. Skip totes and everyday shoulder bags. A clutch with a chain strap lets you keep your hands free when you need them.

Earrings: drop earrings or statement earrings suit most gowns, especially strapless and one-shoulder necklines. With a busy neckline, go simpler. Long gloves are not required for black tie; they belong more to white tie, but you can wear them as a style choice with a sleeveless gown.

A black tie checklist for the night before

1. Try on the gown with the shoes you'll wear and check the hem. It should clear the floor when you walk.
2. Check that your phone, card, keys and lipstick fit in the bag.
3. Pack the wrap or stole, even if the forecast is mild. Ballrooms can run cold.
4. Plan for your coat: coat check, the car, or a host's cloakroom.
5. Lay out the jewelry, and check any clip or clasp you haven't worn in a while.
6. Hang the gown somewhere it won't crease, and steam it if it needs it.