White Tie Dress Code for Women: Gowns, Gloves, Rules

White tie is the most formal dress code: men wear tailcoats with white bow ties, and women wear full-length evening or ball gowns. Long gloves, an evening bag and fine jewelry traditionally finish the look.

You won't see it on many invitations, which is exactly why it causes panic when you do. Here's what white tie asks of women, how it differs from black tie, and how to put the outfit together.

White tie, the most formal dress code

White tie attire is full evening dress, the most formal level of the dress-code ladder. For women, white tie attire means a floor-length gown: the Emily Post Institute's attire guide lists a formal floor-length evening gown, with long gloves as optional. Debrett's, the British etiquette publisher, has described it the same way, as quoted by Gentleman's Gazette: long, formal evening dresses, and no short dresses.

For men, it means a black tailcoat, a white wing-collared shirt, a white waistcoat and a white bow tie. That's where the name comes from, and it's why the code is so recognizable in photos.

White tie survives at a small number of events: state and diplomatic dinners, some charity and society balls, debutante balls, a few opera balls and the occasional very formal wedding. Because it's rare, the invitation usually makes the code clear, and the host is often happy to answer questions.

White tie vs black tie

White tie vs black tie is a question of degree. Both are evening codes, but white tie is a full step more formal. Comparing black tie vs white tie point by point:

• Formality: white tie is the most formal; black tie is one step below.
• Women's length: white tie means floor length, with no shorter option. Black tie usually means floor or ankle length, and some guides accept a very dressy cocktail dress.
• Gloves: long gloves are traditional at white tie. At black tie, they're a style choice.
• Men's dress: white tie is a tailcoat, a white waistcoat and a white bow tie. Black tie is a tuxedo jacket with a black bow tie.
• Typical events: white tie is for state dinners and formal balls. Black tie is for galas, evening weddings and award dinners.

For the full picture of the code one step down, see black tie attire.

The white tie dress code for women

The white tie dress code for women has four parts: the gown, the gloves, the jewelry and the finishing pieces. Here's what each one usually means.

A full-length gown

A white tie gown is floor length, full stop. A ball gown with a full skirt is the traditional choice and the one that looks most at home in a ballroom. A column gown in a rich fabric (heavy satin, silk, velvet or a structured crepe) also works, as long as it's long and clearly evening.

Choose a fabric with some weight and sheen. Satin, silk, taffeta, velvet, brocade and embellished tulle all suit white tie. Skip slits that run high up the leg, cut-outs, casual prints and anything that would look at home at a cocktail party.

Color is open. Black, jewel tones, pastels and metallics are all fine. If the event has a theme or the host asks for a specific palette, follow it.

Long gloves

Long gloves are the classic white tie detail. Above-the-elbow gloves in white, ivory or a shade that suits the gown look the most traditional, especially with a sleeveless or strapless dress. They're not a strict requirement everywhere: the Emily Post guide calls them optional, and Debrett's has said they are no longer compulsory. But at white tie, wearing them is never wrong.

Gloves come off at the table for eating and drinking and go back on after the meal. For the finer points, plus lengths and fabrics, see our guide to opera gloves.

Jewelry and hair

White tie is the one dress code where more jewelry is welcome. Fine jewelry or fine-looking pieces suit the occasion: drop earrings, a necklace that sits on the collarbone with a strapless gown, a bracelet worn over the glove. Keep it coordinated rather than piled on. Two or three strong pieces look better than everything you own.

Hair is usually worn up or in a polished style, which shows off earrings and keeps the neckline clean. If the event has its own traditions around headpieces, the host or invitation will usually say so; otherwise, keep hair accessories simple.

A wrap, a bag and shoes

A wrap or stole covers your shoulders between the car and the ballroom, and in cold rooms. Satin, velvet or faux fur all suit a white tie gown; see evening wraps for the options. If it's properly cold, a wool cape coat goes over a ball gown without crushing the skirt.

The bag should be a small evening clutch or a minaudière, held in your hand or on a fine chain. Evening clutches has styles that work with gloves.

Shoes are formal pumps or heeled sandals in a material that matches the gown's finish, such as satin. They'll barely show under a floor-length skirt, so choose a heel you can stand and dance in for hours.

Where you might meet white tie

White tie events are rare, and they're usually formal occasions with a long tradition behind them:

• State dinners and diplomatic receptions.
• Charity balls and society balls.
• Debutante and cotillion balls.
• Opera balls and some very formal galas. Most galas are black tie; our guide to what to wear to a gala covers the usual codes.
• A very small number of weddings, almost always in the evening.

A regular night at the opera or the ballet isn't white tie, even if the venue is grand.

If you only own a black tie gown

You don't need to buy a ball gown to attend white tie, if the gown you have is already floor length and formal. To raise a black tie gown to white tie:

1. Add long gloves. This is the single biggest signal of white tie.
2. Go fuller or richer. If you're choosing between two gowns, pick the one with the fuller skirt or the more formal fabric.
3. Upgrade the jewelry. Swap simple studs for drop earrings, and add a bracelet over the glove.
4. Bring a formal wrap. A satin or velvet stole looks more white tie than a pashmina.
5. Polish the hair. An updo or a sleek style finishes the formal look.

A gown above the ankle, with a high slit or in a casual fabric won't get there with accessories alone. If you're unsure whether your dress works, check the host's guidance; for white tie events, hosts and organizers often publish exactly what they expect.