Types of Dresses: Styles, Silhouettes and When to Wear Each

The main types of dresses are defined by their silhouette: A-line, sheath, shift, fit-and-flare, empire waist, drop waist, wrap and bodycon. Style names like slip, shirt, sweater and corset dress describe the fabric or a detail, and most dresses are one silhouette plus one style.

So a "black satin slip midi" is a slip style, cut straight or on the bias, in a midi length. Once you can read a dress name that way, shopping gets a lot faster. The shapes come first, then the names you'll see on labels, then which ones work for which occasion.

Dress silhouettes: the shapes behind every dress

The types of dress silhouettes come down to two questions: where does the dress fit your body, and where does it let go? A silhouette fitted at the natural waist reads differently from one that skims straight down, even in the same fabric. Here are the eight shapes you'll meet again and again.

A-line

Fitted through the bodice and widening gently from the waist to the hem, like a capital A. It's the easy all-rounder: it skims the hips and thighs, works in cotton for a weekend or crepe for a wedding, and suits a wide range of shapes. The catch is a stiff fabric that flares too far, which can look boxy at the knee. More detail in the A-line dress guide.

Sheath

A fitted dress that follows your shape from shoulder to hem, usually with darts and a back zip, and usually ending near the knee. It's the classic office and dinner dress. The catch: there's no stretch in many woven sheaths, so fit at the hip matters more than the size label. See sheath dresses for fabrics and fit.

Shift

A shift hangs straight from the shoulders with little or no waist shaping. It's cool in summer and comfortable all day, and it suits anyone who doesn't want a defined waist. On a straight frame it can look shapeless, so add a belt or pick one with a slight taper at the hem.

Fit-and-flare

Fitted through the bodice and waist, then a skirt that flares out more fully than an A-line, often from a seam at the waist. It's the shape of many party and wedding guest dresses, because it shows off the waist and moves when you dance. Read fit-and-flare dresses for how it differs from an A-line.

Empire waist

The seam sits just under the bust, and the skirt falls from there. It's comfortable, it skims the stomach, and it suits long, floaty maxi dresses. The catch is that a short, full empire dress can tip into babydoll territory. Empire waist dresses covers lengths and fabrics.

Drop waist

The opposite move: the waist seam sits low, at the hip, and the skirt starts there. It has a 1920s feel and a relaxed line that suits straighter figures. If you have a defined waist, a drop waist hides it, which is either the point or the problem. More in drop waist dresses.

Wrap

One side of the front wraps over the other and ties at the waist, so you set the fit yourself. A true wrap opens fully; a faux wrap looks the same but is sewn shut and pulls on. Wrap dresses suit most shapes and most occasions, from work to a wedding. If the ties confuse you, see how to tie a wrap dress.

Bodycon

Short for body-conscious: a stretchy, close-fitting dress that hugs everything from bust to hem. It's a night-out shape. Go for a thicker knit if you want it to smooth rather than cling, and keep it for parties rather than the office or a daytime wedding.

Dress styles by name

Dress style names usually describe a fabric, a closure, a neckline or a hem detail rather than the overall shape. That's why the same name can turn up on very different dresses. These are the dress styles you'll see most in listing titles, with what each one means.

• Slip dress: a light, often silky dress with thin straps, cut to skim the body. Many are cut on the bias (diagonally across the fabric), which lets them drape.
• Shirt dress: built like a long shirt, with a collar and a button front, often with a belt. A good weekday dress.
• Sweater dress: a dress knitted like a sweater, from fine-gauge to chunky. For outfit ideas, see sweater dress outfits; for warmth, winter dresses for women.
• Corset dress: a fitted bodice with boning or corset-style seams, sometimes lacing. More in corset dresses.
• Bubble hem dress: the hem gathers back under itself, so the skirt puffs out. See bubble hem dresses.
• Tea dress: a below-the-knee day dress, usually printed, with a fitted waist and a soft skirt.
• Peplum: a short flared ruffle at the waist over a fitted skirt.
• Babydoll: a short dress with a high waist and a loose, full skirt.
• Halter: straps that go around the back of the neck, leaving the shoulders bare.
• One-shoulder: a neckline that crosses the body to one shoulder.
• Mini, midi, maxi: lengths rather than styles. Mini sits around mid-thigh, midi falls between knee and ankle, maxi reaches the ankle or floor. Full detail in dress lengths, from mini to maxi.

Which type of dress for which occasion

The dress code on the invitation decides more than the silhouette does. Still, some shapes fit some events much better than others. Here's a quick guide.

• Office: sheath, shift, wrap, shirt dress, A-line. Skip bodycon and anything strappy without a layer.
• Wedding guest: wrap, A-line, fit-and-flare, empire maxi, slip with a wrap. Skip white and anything bridal. For fall and winter, see velvet wedding guest dresses.
• Cocktail party: sheath, fit-and-flare, slip, corset, bubble hem. Skip cotton day dresses. For cold months, winter cocktail dresses has sleeved options.
• Black tie: a floor-length gown, usually sheath, A-line or empire in a dressy fabric. Skip anything short.
• Casual weekend: shift, shirt dress, sweater dress, tea dress, drop waist. Skip satin and sequins.
• Funeral: sheath, shift, wrap or A-line in a dark, plain fabric with covered shoulders. Skip anything tight, short or shiny.

Choosing a type for your shape

Most women can wear most silhouettes; the useful question is which shape shows off what you like and skims what you don't. A wrap or an A-line suits the widest range of figures, a sheath shows a defined waist and hips, and an empire waist gives you room through the middle. For a fuller walk-through by body shape, read how to dress for your body type. Then try two shapes you'd normally skip. One of them may surprise you.

How to search for a type online

Listing titles mix names freely: one shop's "A-line" is another's "skater", and "bodycon" sometimes just means "has some stretch". So search with three words: the silhouette, the length and the fabric, such as "wrap midi crepe" or "sheath knee ponte". That cuts out most of the noise.

Then check two photos before you buy. The side view shows whether the skirt really flares or hangs straight. The waist close-up shows where the seam actually sits, which tells you whether an "empire" dress is empire or simply high-waisted. If the photos and the title disagree, trust the photos and the written measurements. More shapes and styling ideas live in our style guides.

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